Mechanic Advice

2019 VW petrol Golf R w/39K miles

Yes, I’m aware that companies sell HEPA cabin air filters for vehicles. But, is it safe to install a HEPA cabin air filter on a vehicle who’s HVAC system wasn’t designed for HEPA air filters?

Title sums it up. The 4-wheeler at the non-profit I’m affiliated with hadn’t had an oil change in at least 2 years, they use it frequently. We’d really like an affordable option that I can do to fix.

This post is an update from this one: link

I noticed on the 2001 expedition I bought that it looks like they put an O2 sensor with the long cord before the cat. All the ones online say the long cord is the back one.

I bought a used Forester, from a mechanic shop with a verbal warranty for 2 years. Covers engine and transmission. Transmission has to be replaced, and I’m being told it’s not covered.

Hey all, my wife’s 2009 Corolla has been taking a few turns to start. There’s misfires in every cylinder, and the engine shudders.

I just got my first car and I was thinking I should probably get a dash cam since it has to stay in the driveway, but I feel out of my depth. I don’t have a lot of money so I’m hoping for one that is at most around AU$100. I also think covering both front and rear would be best, but obviously will take advice on that regard. Are there any specific ones you would recommend? I feel completely out of my depth. Also, I’m located in Australia if that makes a difference.

2019 VW Atlas SEL

Hiya It happened recently that when I turn on the ignition all the electronic systems warning lights goes off. LKAS, ABS, ACC, VS, EP etc but the car runs all right apart from the obvious - the electronic support systems not working. The errors stay on during the driving.

Hello mechanics!

Hi everyone,

So it's come the time to break the pads on my car which is a Kia Rio. I've looked up a few things and the job seems doable by myself which saves a lot of money.

This thing has been driving us nuts! We're slowly but systematically replacing basically every relevant part suggested by the various codes it's thrown over the past few years, but it still acts up, totally randomly.

I drive a 2014 GMC Savanah cargo van for work. It has a handy backup camera display built into the rearview mirror. However the camera is only on when the truck is in reverse. Seeing as how this is a cargo van with a solid wall directly behind the seats, the rearview mirror is useless for anything besides that backup camera display and checking my hair. I figure if I could get it to leave the backup camera on whenever the truck is on then I could also see whatever is directly behing me when just driving normally far more effectively than I can with just the side mirrors.

I'm trying to diagnose a p0125 code on my 99 corolla. Toyota forums seem to say Toyota didn't follow standards on this code and it is likely also the O2 sensor, can anyone confirm if this is the case?

Car was running fine, parked for a week or so and now dies immediately after start (doesn't stop like it's low on fuel, stops like if I were to turn the ignition to off). No amount of throttle changes this behavior. I did some Internet research and found that disconnecting the MAF sensor might lead me to the cause if it runs after disconnect. Exact same behavior when disconnected. While in the engine bay I found that if I disconnected the Boost Pressure Solenoid, it started up and ran (idle was a little high, but seems to run okay). The fact it's running when that solenoid is disconnected leads me to believe it's not (at least entirely) a fuel delivery issue. Would you expect that the solenoid itself is the issue, or does that lead you to expect it's some other issue.

I’ve been to smaller shops, I’ve been to dealerships, and the only time I’ve ever gotten an alignment done right was after I complained to a general manager. I know alignments are hard with the laser machines. It shouldn’t be a problem, right? Are they just being lazy? I hate having to go back to the shop and wait another 2 to 4 hours to get something done that should’ve been done right the first time.

Hi! I have a 2010 GTI, manual transmission, currently 120k miles, owned since new. Recently, when shifting into 2nd or 3rd, I've felt a vibration as if the clutch wasn't quite in all the way. It's only happened a couple of times over the last month.

I've acquired a classic 1977 124 Spider that hasn't seen much action in ~1 decade. I've had it ~1 week & the most important stuff works. I've done a number of small trips around town. Yesterday in the garage I wanted to catalog everything that needs repair by flipping all knobs/switches and marking what's not working. I found that the wipers don't work (but the wiper fluid pump does) and the cabin air/defrost fan doesn't come on, and one of the air levers is locked/frozen. I left the car for a couple of hours and when I returned I thought I could smell plastic burning. I hunted for the smell & found a small electronic component under the hood that seemed like it might be hot, but I wasn't sure. I left the car overnight with the hood up and when I returned I the smell was gone but the battery was dead!

My car is a 2017 VW Jetta. My current tires are Firestone 205/55R16 91H M+S and they desperately need to be changed. Got a friend that works at a junkyard that found previously said tires for me and I want to make sure that they'll fit on the wheel before I waste his time. Will they or won't they?

2001 QX4

Just replaced the rotors and new pads. The pads are semi metallic. I’ve noticed a brief rubbing sound when coming to a complete stop and when lifting my foot off the brake pedal from a stop. Is this normal for metallic pads?

2001 Infiniti QX4 Automatic 4WD with RWD bias (4WD only kicks in when rear slips)

So, a few months ago I ran into a pothole and got a bubble on my tyre. It was almost time to switch to winter tyres so I kept driving for a few more weeks with no issues, put winters on and that was that. Today I went to get the summers installed and replace the one with the bubble and the mechanic pointed out that I also bent the rim on that pothole. I hadn't noticed the damage, nor any vibrations and it's still holding air perfectly. It's now mounted in the rear, where it will hopefully be under less stress (I drive a Yaris). I can get a new wheel, but not for the next few weeks and I do need to drive in the meantime, so my question is, should I bother getting this wheel repaired? The damage doesn't seem big and from what I've heard straightening aluminium wheels sometimes leads to cracks, which will just make the situation worse than it already is. I'd rather have a wheel that's probably usable than one that definitely isn't.

Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? I have just changed the clutch and now I am struggling to select gears even when the engine isn't running.

Hope y'all are still doing okay! Personally I've been a little off for a few months but that's okay.

So, that insight we bought last September so far seems mechanically sound, but, so, so dirty. I'm not sure how best to approach it but waiting till spring because our garage is not heated and it's cold as shit up here in MT.

For context, I drive a Toyota Yaris on 17 inch wheels. I hit a pothole and got a bubble on my front right tire (the pain of running low profile tires). Anyway, I bough these tires something like 6 months ago and only have 5000-ish kilometers on them. The other 3 still look in perfect condition. I know it's normally recommended to replace tires in pairs, but is that really needed here considering how new the set is? Feels stupid to replace a tire that is practically new.

I drive a 2008 4runner with 85k miles. It's been receiving by the manual maintenance for its whole life.

All of a sudden my clutch went from totally normal to very hard to press down. It's now been this way for quite a long time. It's a hydraulic clutch (clutch was replaced by a shop a few months prior to the issue, but me and the shop....did not get along.) in an 06 tribute with a 4 cylinder motor.

I have all seasons on my Chev 2019 Silverado. At an oil change the guy said my back tires were a "3". No way I was buying his tires but it begs the question...

Preparedness. This is a big one, guys!

This is basic stuff but if you aren't already, be checking your tires for knots! Any place on your tire that's protruding abnormally. This can and eventually will result in a blow out.

Northern New Hampshire here. Lots of salt in the winters = lots of rust. Undercoatings worth it or not-so-much?

I've been procrastinating a fix for a vibration that is speed related on my xc90. It starts around 45mph and comes and goes up to 65 or 70... I broke some stuff 'diagnosing' it, and once I fix that I'm going to take the awd driveshaft out. I'm assuming a bearing is bad, any ideas? I want to repair the driveshaft because it's really expensive to replace.

It's a given that people can post to this sub to get advice from mechanics - or just those with some know how everyone is welcome!

Here are the details:

I run a little business doing this irl and though I'm not an expert in any one thing, I do have a bevy of general experience dating back a few decades. I've been a little busier than usual since coming to Lemmy and sometimes forget to check the app, and have missed a few posts due to this but if you message me directly and I see it I will absolutely get to you asap! I will try and be better at checking the sub.